5.0/302 Alternator Bracket Modification/Replacement

The stock combination smog pump and alternator bracket used on the 1980 - 1986 trucks is one large, HEAVY piece of iron and an eyesore if the smog pump has been removed. Most of these trucks have had the smog pump removed by now, leaving that HUGE alternator/smog pump bracket in place with a big open gap right at the top front of the engine that screams something is missing. I hated the way this looked, so I decided to find a different way to mount my alternator since I don't have the smog pump anymore and I don't have emissions testing in my area.

I found this complete alternator bracket setup from a 1975 Ford F100 in the junkyard. Both the 302 and 351 engines used this setup. This was what Ford used to mount the alternator to the engine before they started using smog pumps:



First, you will have to remove the fan and fan pulley to get to the mounting holes to mount these brackets. The top black brace bolts to existing holes on the front of the water pump. The hole on the slotted bottom black bracket bolts to the bottom hole of the top black brace and the water pump as well. This is the alternator pivot bracket. The silver aluminum bracket with four holes bolts to the front of the passenger's side head, using existing holes. Finally, the long bolt passes through the larger hole of the top black brace, through the alternator, through the spacer, and screws into the top threaded hole of the silver aluminum bracket with the spacer.

The only other thing left to get is an alternator belt from a 1975 F100, as it is shorter than the 1980 - 1986 belt because the alternator is now mounted up high and closer to the pulley. I also added a short piece of plastic convoluted tubing to cover the section of heater hose where it rests against the top of the alternator to prevent the hose from chaffing. This setup looks much neater, it places the alternator up high where you can actually get to it, and you would never know that my truck originally came with a smog pump. Best of all, there was NO cutting or drilling involved and all of these pieces are genuine FORD parts!

And this is what it looks like installed on my 1985 F150, 302 engine:

Good job, Rick!  

This "pre-smog" alternator bracket swap was on my radar for a long time but I could never find all the right parts together, so it fell off my priority list.

Thanks for the reminder that I still need to do this.

That looks great!

Rembrant wrote

This "pre-smog" alternator bracket swap was on my radar for a long time but I could never find all the right parts together, so it fell off my priority list.

Thanks for the reminder that I still need to do this.

Here you go:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MERCURY-302-351-W-Alternator-Bracket-Set-Brace-D7UE10A336AA-D3AE10145CA/114011318994?hash=item1a8b9aaad2:g:x~QAAOSwF~1d8b3K

LARIAT 85 wrote

Here you go:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MERCURY-302-351-W-Alternator-Bracket-Set-Brace-D7UE10A336AA-D3AE10145CA/114011318994?hash=item1a8b9aaad2:g:x~QAAOSwF~1d8b3K

Is that everything that is required?

I've seen the miscellaneous parts available over the years but have never seen them all in one place together.

Yes, it is!  

Rick,

Thanks! Do you have any pictures of yours installed?
Just curious where your heater core hoses are sitting?

Did my picture above not show up?

Here are two more:

LARIAT 85 wrote

Did my picture above not show up?

Oh, sorry...my bad. I forgot you had posted a picture earlier on. Thanks.

Does it take the same size belt as stock or did you have to get a shorter one?

Rembrant wrote

Does it take the same size belt as stock or did you have to get a shorter one?

No, you have to get a shorter belt.  

The good news is that it still takes a stock Ford belt, so you should be able to find it in any parts store.  Just remember to ask for an alternator belt for a truck 10 years older.  In my case, that would be a 1975 Ford F100 with a 302 engine.

Capiche?

LARIAT 85 wrote

No, you have to get a shorter belt.  

The good news is that it still takes a stock Ford belt, so you should be able to find it in any parts store.  Just remember to ask for an alternator belt for a truck 10 years older.  In my case, that would be a 1975 Ford F100 with a 302 engine.

Capiche?

Got it. Thanks!
I have it saved for now. I've got so many things on my Bullnose want list I had long forgotten about this. Now you've got me interested again. This forum is getting expensive for me...lol.

I spent years gathering parts for my restoration, and often ended up buying something I didn't really need at the time.  Often these parts ended up sitting unused until I actually needed them much later.  In the end, I am glad I did it in most cases because a good many of those parts I never saw again.  I have also noticed that many parts I thought I paid dearly for 10 years ago are now going for almost double the price.

In other words, what I am trying to say is that these trucks are now going on 40 years old and many of these OEM Ford parts are getting hard to find.  I think more people are starting to pay attention to these trucks, and prices are following the basic rules of supply and demand.  If you see something unusual like this you know you will want in the future, I wouldn't wait around.

I am a big fan of your truck.  Good luck with your restoration!

That is really helpful, thank you!  My state doesn't (yet) allow removal of the stock emissions, but I'll save this for anticipation for the day they do -or I move out.  

In the meantime, those that do remove the smog pump brackets may want to consider saving them.   CA trucks back to '75 need these to stay compliant, and when a truck changes hands that was kept out of the emission pool, these can be hard to find for the new owner trying to bring their ride into compliance for licensing inspection, and fetch decent prices.

LARIAT 85 wrote

If you see something unusual like this you know you will want in the future, I wouldn't wait around.

I am a big fan of your truck.  Good luck with your restoration!

Ok, I ended up buying it. After a nights sleep and your comments I decided to grab it. To be honest it had kinda fallen off my radar as I moved on to other things. I went out and looked at the existing bracket some more and figured that it would be nice to get rid of that. I had already hacked the smog pump portion of it off, but it's still not a pretty piece by any means.

Thanks for being a fan of the truck Rick...lol. Truth be told, I think you'd probably be disappointed if you ever saw it in person. It's not as nice as it looks in the pictures. It's nice for around here, but it no way would compare with a southern truck. I will be taking it to some shows this summer, but it was never really supposed to be a show truck. It was only meant to be a nice cruiser. The frame is the biggest eyesore on the truck. It was rusty and I cleaned it up and painted it, but it still looks like a rusty frame that was painted.

In any case, thanks for the heads up on this Rick. I've been stealing some of your ideas, like the 5.0 GT air cleaner and valve covers, etc. Now the ALT bracket.

I also just noticed something else in your pictures. The valve in the heater core hose...is that something you added or was that an option with AC in 1985? I am working on getting the parts to install factory AC and I was thinking of just putting a manual valve there to shut off in the summer.

Cory - I'm not Rick, obviously, but I do have some input on the heat shutoff valve.  First, it never came on these trucks, but should have done.  Second, there are lots of ways to do that valve, and we've discussed several ways to do it, including in the thread called Vacuum Controlled Heater Core Valve.

Also, we have a page (Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems) that has a tab called Heat Shutoff.  Unfortunately the only tab within that which has any info in it is the Vacuum Valve tab.  (I've just added an entry to the Forum & Website Upgrades spreadsheet to flesh that out from the thread above.  )

Rembrant wrote

In any case, thanks for the heads up on this Rick. I've been stealing some of your ideas, like the 5.0 GT air cleaner and valve covers, etc. Now the ALT bracket.

I also just noticed something else in your pictures. The valve in the heater core hose...is that something you added or was that an option with AC in 1985? I am working on getting the parts to install factory AC and I was thinking of just putting a manual valve there to shut off in the summer.

I am flattered that you are using some of my ideas.  This is why I like to share them with others!


The heater control valve is something that I added.  This is a FORD part that was originally used on 1995 - 2004 Ford Rangers with A/C.  I agree with Gary in that it is a nice feature to have - especially if you live in a hot area.  

In the normal "resting" position, this valve allows coolant to flow into the heater core as usual to give you a source of heat to adjust the temperature in the cab.  But if you choose MAX A/C on your HVAC panel, the heater control valve will effectively block the flow of hot coolant to the heater core and redirect it back into the engine. This removes an extra source of heat that the A/C will otherwise have to overcome.  The result is a cooler cab when using MAX A/C.     

Unlike a manual shut-off valve - which simply stops the flow of coolant dead in it's tracks - the heater control valve will still allow the normal flow of coolant in either position.  And unlike a manual shut-off valve, it works automatically using engine vacuum.  (I felt the vacuum-controlled automatic valve was more fitting for Lucille, considering she is an upscale LARIAT truck with many other vacuum-controlled features.)

To make it work, you simply install it in the heater hoses as shown in the picture below.  Then, disconnect the hard vacuum hose line (from a grommet in the heater core case) from the vacuum motor that controls the HVAC functions.  Both of which are located in your engine bay on the passenger's side.  The heater control valve will connect to a tee that you can easily install between these two connections:  






Or if you would like, you can run the vacuum line to a manifold vacuum source in the summer.  This will close the heater control valve any time the engine is running and keep hot coolant out of the heater core all the time.  You just have to remember to unplug it again when the weather turns cooler and you want heat.  

The upside is the air coming in when using the VENT function will also be cooler.  The downside is you will not be able to adjust the temperature no matter what position the HVAC control panel is in.  In other words, the top lever that adjusts the temperature will be useless. The manual shut-off valve will have the same problem.  


Heater control valve (1995 – 2004 Ranger)
F87Z18495AA

I did this to my Bronco. Just like you described. I read about it somewhere, could have been eff tee eee.

If it was you Rick, thanks! Works good!

The valve started leaking after two or three years, can’t remember. Found out they’re made partially out of metal now. Installed one of those.

So, I have a spare as I had one (all plastic) waiting for me to put it on my truck. Haven’t found the need yet. But haven’t taken it down south like the Bronco.

Also have an electrically operated vacuum switch which I also haven’t needed yet. For as you mentioned warmer air through the vents. I just kick on the A/C on Max!

Rick - Would it be ok to capture your words and pics to put on the Heat Shut Off and Vacuum Valve tabs on the HVAC Systems page?

Gary Lewis wrote

Rick - Would it be ok to capture your words and pics to put on the Heat Shut Off and Vacuum Valve tabs on the HVAC Systems page?

It would be an honor, Chief!