3G alternator installed, thanks to this forum and FTE

Did the first one in a Bricky, Bullnose comes next.  Sweet as can be, comes up to full volts within 10 seconds after start.

Don't bother looking for the stock Furd harness. I found that little triple connector at NAPA. I could not find a Conti/Sable/Taurus/Windstar that old at any local yards. Furd dealer wanted $37 for the 1-wire connector and $25 for the triple. On a hunch I took the new modified alternator to NAPA and got the triple for $15, along with a few slender female spade insulated crimp-on connectors for a buck.

Here is the NAPA part number for the triple connector: VRC441

I used a new Rock Auto alternator because 2006 and earlier is getting very hard to find at junkyards except for CarPart search engine link

Son works as a mechanic and brought home some discarded primary wire from a late-90s F150. So no need to purchase 6gauge wire this time. Many old large wires I had hanging around turned out to be badly corroded inside the insulation, fyi so check that before using it. I believe DC travels inside the copper as opposed to RF which travels on the skin of strands. But  why not use wire in good condition.

Here's the FTE thread with good pics and info
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1506233-130a-3g-alternator-upgrade-on-6-9-7-3l-idi-guide.html

Well done!  Looks good and obviously works well.  

Yes, DC is unlike RF and uses the interior of the wire.  So it is best to have good wiring.

A few more details please sir. Aside from the wiring, what other changes did you have to make? I am to the point that I am fed up with the 1G on my 90 F-Superduty with a 7.3 in it.

Steve - I wouldn't think a '90 would have a 1G.  Probably a 2G, which is worse than a 1G due to the connector problem.  If so, change it!

That's a lot of money for a regulator pigtail.
And you definitely can get the stator connector too.

'90 7.3 is a side mount alternator, correct???

7.3 went side mount mid 1992 when they changed to serpentine drive.

I stand corrected!

130A 3G's are definitely available for your application.

Mine has a 130 amp 1G with a external regulator over on the fender next to the starter relay. To get the thing to charge, you have to kick the RPMS up to 1200. In the heat of the day sitting at a traffic light with the ac on it gets hot in the cab fast as the fan will bearly blow. So now you have one foot on the foot feed( heal) and your toe on the brake and the other on the clutch. I have the eneine out so I thought this would be the perfect time to swap it to a 3G or a single wire 130 amp Leeice Nivelle  like you see running on the semis.

No Jim, my alternator mounts look just like the ones on a 6.9, bottom pivot bolt and a top adjuster bolt.

Gary, I have a 90 amp 2G in my Bronco. Other then having to change it in 2003, It has been flawless. I have checked the plug harness a million times and haven't seen anything wrong with it. At a traffic light, idling, with the AC on, the ampmeter reads about half way between the center and the full charging mark.

This Bronco has some different stuff on it as it was a speical order. I still don't have all of the answers ether and I bought it in Sept of 86, Second hand from the FORD dealer in Oceanside CA while I was stationed at Ft Ord Ca. It was built in FEB 86.

I posted a picture of my new 3G a few weeks back.
Gary asked for, and now posted the data sheet that came with it.

You'll appreciate the LRC regulator with 6 second ramp up and 2 second load response.

You need to drill the 8x1.25 adjuster clamp bolt hole to O, and tap that ear 3/8-16.

When you swap the polygroove pulley for your existing V-belt pulley, you should put a thin 15mm washer behind it to keep the pulley from rubbing the case.

You can see from the charging curve how much power this thing puts out at XXX alternator rpm, though I don't know the pulley ratio in a 7.3 so can't say anything about the engine RPM.

Edit: Ah, but of course Gary DOES have the pulley ratios on the alternator page.
Looks like the IDI gets 100A at 666 engine RPM.

old55pete wrote

Mine has a 130 amp 1G with a external regulator over on the fender next to the starter relay. To get the thing to charge, you have to kick the RPMS up to 1200. In the heat of the day sitting at a traffic light with the ac on it gets hot in the cab fast as the fan will bearly blow. So now you have one foot on the foot feed( heal) and your toe on the brake and the other on the clutch. I have the eneine out so I thought this would be the perfect time to swap it to a 3G or a single wire 130 amp Leeice Nivelle  like you see running on the semis.

Are you running an electric fan?

No sir, I should have said the blower motor for the heater/ AC. This truck is an old PG&E truck I bought at an auction for little to nothing.

Because of the alternator not charging at an Idle, we will start the welder in the box if we are using it on a night service call. There are required lights that have to be on at night and they kill the battries in a couple of hours. Every once in a while the guys will forget to start the welder and kill the battries then someone has to go out and jump start the truck.

Like all older trucks, it has some glitches, But I wouldent trade it in on a new one if you paid me to.