1986 XLT speakers

alright. where can i find the striker pin bushing on the door? is it inside the latch, or on the frame with the door pin

"In the door frame" means the opening of the cab the door fits into.

Does your striker have a grey plastic sleeve like this?
Is it still smooth and round?



Dorman 34488, about $10

okay so i just went out to my truck to close my windows, since the interior was airing out from the deep cleaning i did yesterday. the passenger side door does not have a plastic sleeve over the striker, however, that door is in mint condition. no issues locking, unlocking, opening or closing. the driver door doesn’t have a sleeve either however there is a large gouge dented into the top, from the teeth of the latch. i had issues with the teeth causing the door to slam open when trying to close it, and after a couple days of my buddy and i trying to get the door back on with new hinges, we eventually got it on and closed but the lip of the door was under the fender, rendering the door immobile.

it got fixed by a mechanic when she went in for a full diagnosis, so it opens and closes (kinda) but it doesn’t sit flush anymore and has noticeable gaps at the top and the bottom

If the gaps aren't right the hinges are either worn or poorly adjusted. (Or both)
The striker will continue to beat the hell out of your latch mechanism without that plastic sleeve. (so perhaps change both)

With the door near closed pick up on the back end of the door and see if it moves.
If there's play, buy a kit and change out the bushings and pins.

The door needs adjusted to the cab opening, and the striker should be adjusted where it doesn't try to raise the door but only holds it tightly closed.
Fender gap is the last thing you do when hanging a door. It can be hung wrong, pushed back from an accident, whatever..

Cab comes first. Crappy rocker repairs can make this almost impossible.
I always look at the top and back gaps to get those right first.
Then adjust the striker to where the latch pulls the door in plane with the B pillar.
If the door is loose or rattles when you've got that right you likely need new door seals.

I should tag Dave. He grew up in an auto body shop....

ahh that sounds right. i bought a pair of hinges off an 85 F-150 from one of two local junkyards. i had them in the cab, and i know they fit cuz my buddy and i had them on but the mechanic used the original tan ones, instead of the replacement blue.
would it be a good idea to get new pin and latch mechanism? both junkyards adjust all their doors to open and close as if they’re brand new, and i know they’ve got the parts that would fit my truck.

and as for getting everything lined up, should i take the fender off, loosen the door hinges so it has play, line it all up and then tighten everything down and put the fender back? or what’s the best way to get it all up properly

Latches are a big pain to change and don't usually get destroyed but I can't say yours isn't.
If the catch is now razor sharp a new bushing won't last long.

If it were me I'd buy a pin kit and striker for each door and replace them.
That's only around $20 a side and depending on skill and tools could be done in an hour.
(there are a bunch of threads discussing hinge pin replacement)

Removing the fender isn't necessarily required to get the door adjusted but it sure makes getting at the hinge bolts easier.
Again, a lot of work.
Like removing the headlamp doors just to get at where the fender attaches to the radiator support.

I'll bet Dave has good advice...

alright. i’ll start with the hinges and making sure it’s lining up properly, and then replace the pin for the latch too, because the gouge in it is pretty severe. i think the original hinges were messed up, the pin was bent a little so i’ll put the blue ones in instead, see if that helps it at all

Sorry I am late to the party, was at a cruise-in yesterday and forgot about the email on this.

Jim is right on how to check the hinges. Door almost closed and lift up & down and it if moves it has warn hing pins & bushings.
Going with junk yard one is a crap shoot if they are good or bad in my book.
So you can rebuild a set you have a set off the truck and swap them on or me I would buy new hinged and swap them on.

NOTE: when test fitting a door, hood or tail gate go slow when closing to make sure it will close without binding. If you slam it and it binds it can damage stuff but also get stuck and cant open it to adjust more.

As for adjusting the door it is best to remove the latch pin, the part that should have the plastic bushing on it. This way the door will open & close with out it latching.
As Jim said you need to line up the door edges at the top, back and bottom of the cab as they can not move.
Also as said if the rockers have been replaced and it not squared up before they were removed then the door may not be able to have a even gap all the way around them 3 sides. In that case you do the best you can it get them even with out hitting and call it done. Remember this is not a show truck and no one will be measuring gaps.

Now when doing this be careful on the front edge of the door to fender that they clear when opening as you dont want to bend the door or fender. If the gaps on the other 3 sides are good but the fender is off the fender can be adjusted also. That is a whole other job.

On the striker pin if no bushing replace it.
Screw it in so it is firm but not tight.
Hold the button in on the outside handle and close the door.
If the striker is off a little being it is loose it should move to where it needs to be as a start.

Open the door and tighten the striker and again button in close the door.
If all is ok then give it a try  and close & latch door.You may need to go in just a little to make the door shut tight.
The striker should not make the door move up or down when closing it if so recheck your work.

Hope that helps
Dave ----

My door strikers are the older style and do not have the metal protective piece around them.

Also about the Speaker Baffles:

Ford has made plastic Speaker Baffles for the Front door speakers. I have two of them that I got out of a 1996 F-150, along with the Speakers. Works great with the original Ford radios.

I also have a set of 6x9 approx. Speakers from a 90's Crown Vic, with the Speaker adapter plates mounted behind the seat, with the speaker wire harness of a 80's Bronco ran from the radio to the back. These also had a set of Ford Baffles.

The ohms are between 5.5 and 6.5 if I remember correctly.

okay. i don’t have bushings on my latch pins either. just straight metal. i’m almost guaranteeing the issue is the hinges. the top hinges pin is bent wrong, and just needs to be replaced. i know the blue set from the junkyard are in good working order. the truck i pulled those off of open and close just as well as they did back in 1985 when that truck was made.

i’m not sure what the guys at the yards do, but all of their trucks’ doors are in near mint condition, while most my friends with “older” trucks/cars always have some issue with their doors. (i say older because i have the oldest truck out of anyone i know besides my grandpa)

i’ll replace the hinges and latch pin, and make sure everything is lined up and see if it closes.

is there an easier way to adjust the door other than removing the fender, closing the door so it’s all lined up, and then bolting everything in?