1984 F250

Hey everyone,
I just posted a new member intro and it was recommended I start a thread here where more people will see it and I can get the answers I need.
I got a 1984 F250 XLT with a 460 and auto trans. I'm just going to list the issues and fill in the blanks as I do more research. If anyone has any guidance, feel free to let me know what I'm doing wrong.
A lot of stuff I don't expect answers on until I have spent some time sitting with an electrical diagram and doing more research on my own.
But here goes:

1. Do these trucks normally have dual batteries?
2. Speedo, tach and coolant temp gauges don't work. I hit the engine with an infared thermometer and it was reading between 175-190. This sounds about right but I'm curious what temp it should be running.
Aftermarket tach pegs the idle a little over 500, and pretty steady.
3. Gear vendors Overdrive isn't getting power.
4. Rear fuel pump isn't getting power.
5. MSD spark timing unit. Any suggestions about properly using this feature?
6. Drivers headlight fades in and out, never seems to get full power.
7. Brake lights stay on after being parked. Eventually going out.
8. Brake pedal is slow to come back up. I'm going to bleed and see how it feels.
9. 4x4 transfer case is a little sticky. First time putting it in 4hi, I had to move it through the gears a couple times before it registered. I had it in 4hi (I believe) and gave it gas but it felt like it was in neutral still. But I did get it in finally and it digs!
Warn hubs turned easily.
10. Trailer wires. Messy. It has the circular plug in the bumper. I'm not used to this plug but I'm assuming I can find a converter to a 4way plug for my trailer.
11. MSD ignition has a bunch of wires coming out of it. Previous owner said it had been converted to EFI then back to carb? I'll take pics of this.
12. It needs tie rods. The steering is a little loose. Any recommendations for brands?

As you can see me and my multimeter are going to be spending some time together in the near future as I try to sort through these gremlins.

I'll try to answer some of the questions, with my answers in bold:

1. Do these trucks normally have dual batteries?  No, auxiliary batteries were an infrequently-specified option.  Big Blue has that option.

2. Speedo, tach and coolant temp gauges don't work. I hit the engine with an infared thermometer and it was reading between 175-190. This sounds about right but I'm curious what temp it should be running.  Aftermarket tach pegs the idle a little over 500, and pretty steady.  The standard thermostat was 195 degrees.  But who knows what is in your truck.  As for the gauges not working, there's no fuse for them.  So if they aren't working then I'd bet it is the ICVR that's bad.  Read here: Documentation/Electrical/ICVR.

3. Gear vendors Overdrive isn't getting power.  Dunno 'bout that 'cause that's been added on.

4. Rear fuel pump isn't getting power.  The wiring diagram is here on Page 105: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM.  (Yes, your's is an '84, but I just checked the 1984 EVTM, which I don't have on line, and that page is exactly the same as the '85, which I do have on line.)

5. MSD spark timing unit. Any suggestions about properly using this feature?  I don't know, but David/1986F150Six has an MSD ignition so he may know.

6. Drivers headlight fades in and out, never seems to get full power.  If it is just the driver's side then you probably have a ground problem on that headlight.  And it grounds using G801, which the EVTM says is on left hand inner fender behind the headlight.

7. Brake lights stay on after being parked. Eventually going out.  The answer is in the next question - the brake light switch is on the brake pedal.  If it is slow coming up then the lights will be slow to go out.

8. Brake pedal is slow to come back up. I'm going to bleed and see how it feels.  I doubt bleeding will fix it, but it won't cost much so give it a try.  Instead, I suspect a problem with the vacuum booster.  Something is keeping the pedal from coming back up, and there's a spring that is supposed to bring it up.  You should look at the General Brake Service tab to see if it suggests the problem: Documenation/Driveline/Brakes.

9. 4x4 transfer case is a little sticky. First time putting it in 4hi, I had to move it through the gears a couple times before it registered. I had it in 4hi (I believe) and gave it gas but it felt like it was in neutral still. But I did get it in finally and it digs!  Warn hubs turned easily.  Depending on the transfer case, there's a plastic shift fork that wears and caused the positions on the shift detent to be different than the actual gear position in the t-case.  So watch to see if it seems off and you have trouble getting into 4Lo.  If so then that's what it might be.  But maybe it hadn't been shifted in forever?

10. Trailer wires. Messy. It has the circular plug in the bumper. I'm not used to this plug but I'm assuming I can find a converter to a 4way plug for my trailer.  Yes, they make an adapter to convert from the round to the flat connector.  I carry one in Big Blue as I only have the round connector.

11. MSD ignition has a bunch of wires coming out of it. Previous owner said it had been converted to EFI then back to carb? I'll take pics of this.

12. It needs tie rods. The steering is a little loose. Any recommendations for brands?  Moog.

Gary Lewis wrote

5. MSD spark timing unit. Any suggestions about properly using this feature?  I don't know, but David/1986F150Six has an MSD ignition so he may know.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=D6A59E4A8552531DE8FC03680EA642B8D5FB2D6C&thid=OIP.ySvBCEkOYjdnus4EpZGWfgHaFN&mediaurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.stangtv.com%2Ffiles%2F2011%2F02%2Fd6al.jpg&exph=450&expw=640&q=msd+6al+wiring+diagram&selectedindex=2&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,6

Thanks, David.  

Thanks for your quick replies!
I did a brief clean up yesterday afternoon and tracked some of my wires down, so I have a better understanding of things but wow someone went crazy in there with quick splices and add-a-fuses.
But in general, I am pretty pleased with this vehicle. Other than the chaos of wiring, I can tell someone put a lot of time on this vehicle. MSD Ignition, holley heads, edelbrock intake and carb, headers, etc. How many hours and thousands of dollars would it take me to do all that?

One quick note about the gear vendors OD

Is this a factory option badge or completely aftermarket?

Heres a little taste.

It is always less expensive to pick up a project with lots of parts in it, or even a finished project, than it is to create it yourself.  In my guestimation the best people get is 50% of what they spent.  And that's usually when the project is completed.  But far less than 50% if the project is in pieces.

And a truck with all those goodies is gonna be fun!  You just have to peel the onion, cry, peel, cry, etc.  But some day you'll have a Bloomin' Onion!!

As for the Gear Vendors OD, that was not an option from the factory.  Doesn't show in any of the catalogs or brochures.  So that badge is from GV, not Ford.

On the wiring, YUK!!!!!  I hate quick splices.  To me the only way to properly join wires in a vehicle is to solder them and cover the joint with adhesive-lined heat shrink.  (I do acknowledge that the proper crimper can make a good solderless joint, but few have the proper crimpers.  Nor do they use the good connectors.)

Which are good crimpers and connectors?

A conversation between Gary and myself sparked the whole Tips & Techniques subforum.

In a nutshell, ratcheting crimpers with changeable jaws and tinned adhesive shrink lined marine terminals.

I think there are Amazon links in the thread.

I need some better electrical tools. I've got a pretty good pair of pliers with strippers, cutting blades and crimpers built in and it works for small gauge stuff but when I need to do battery cables or welding wire, I just get out the biggest pliers I own and pretend like I'm Mr. Atlas. With practice, I've gotten decent but I have had a fair number of terminals slip out. I don't do crimp-connects mainly because they aren't water tight. But mainly out of a sense of pride in my work.


On another note, I'm looking at suspension stuff because my road is a mess. I think the shocks on the 250 are probably shot. Rockauto has bilsteins, which is what I normally put on all my vehicles but I might go with something cheaper while I get things straightened out.
Currently, the back is set up with a coilover-strut, which I see online for "extra load carrying" which I don't think I need because when I do heavy loads I can inflate the airbags for a higher capacity.
Anyways, just brainstorming for the moment because the issue I really need to figure out is how to set up the rear bags to give me the most travel. Take shocks off, measure, buy some limiting straps.
I'm probably going to try throwing some monroe's or KYBs on to see how it feels as I get it closer to a set up that works for me.

This 460 is a beast.

Adhesive lined shrink tubing and crimp terminals are water tight...

If you don't want to go hydraulic (like a Pico press) there are compound leverage crimpers for larger lugs.
*** edit, Similar to a cross between the little crimpers for insulated terminals and a pair of bolt cutters**

Or, you can buy solder pellets that go with the lugs and heat it up with a torch.
They make a solid connection.

The thing about airbags is that there is no damping at all.
Maybe they keep the springs off the bump stops, but they pop right up like a pogo stick.

I have the heavy duty Monroe's, and will go for KYB's next time around.

Jim was burning the midnight oil last night!!! Get some sleep DUDE

I was up at 2:20 yesterday.
Worked until after midnight up in Trumbull.
Got back, brushed my teeth and hit the forum.
Woke around 4:45 (late for me) checked in, loaded my truck for today.
Now cooling my heels until 8 and the noise ordanance lifts.

NOW!!!!

Get to work..

swampedout wrote

I need some better electrical tools. I've got a pretty good pair of pliers with strippers, cutting blades and crimpers built in and it works for small gauge stuff but when I need to do battery cables or welding wire, I just get out the biggest pliers I own and pretend like I'm Mr. Atlas. With practice, I've gotten decent but I have had a fair number of terminals slip out. I don't do crimp-connects mainly because they aren't water tight. But mainly out of a sense of pride in my work.


On another note, I'm looking at suspension stuff because my road is a mess. I think the shocks on the 250 are probably shot. Rockauto has bilsteins, which is what I normally put on all my vehicles but I might go with something cheaper while I get things straightened out.
Currently, the back is set up with a coilover-strut, which I see online for "extra load carrying" which I don't think I need because when I do heavy loads I can inflate the airbags for a higher capacity.
Anyways, just brainstorming for the moment because the issue I really need to figure out is how to set up the rear bags to give me the most travel. Take shocks off, measure, buy some limiting straps.
I'm probably going to try throwing some monroe's or KYBs on to see how it feels as I get it closer to a set up that works for me.

This 460 is a beast.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Adhesive lined shrink tubing and crimp terminals are water tight...

If you don't want to go hydraulic (like a Pico press) there are compound leverage crimpers for larger lugs.
*** edit, Similar to a cross between the little crimpers for insulated terminals and a pair of bolt cutters**

Or, you can buy solder pellets that go with the lugs and heat it up with a torch.
They make a solid connection.

The thing about airbags is that there is no damping at all.
Maybe they keep the springs off the bump stops, but they pop right up like a pogo stick.

I have the heavy duty Monroe's, and will go for KYB's next time around.

When I did the battery cables on my drag car, battery in the trunk, I bought a cable crimper you use a hammer to "crimp". I also cut small solder and stuck it in the lug with the cable before crimping. Add a little heat and call it done, was not to worried about water tight as the car is not driven in the rain.
Works pretty good they are not like them below.
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/product/e-z-red-hammer-indent-crimper-ezrb790c?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhpDIyqyy5QIVFmyGCh1jgwopEAQYCyABEgLBrvD_BwE

https://www.airgas.com/product/Welding-Products/Welding-Support-Equipment/Miscellaneous-Welding-Support-Equipment/p/RAD64002046?fo_c=306&fo_k=bd68fe0cc5b84012906ad5383413daea&fo_s=cstmc&s_kwcid=AL!10136!3!381226765332!!!g!814860517845!&utm_arg=SEM:Google:GSN_-_Items_-_Welding_Products-Miscellaneous_Welding_Support_Equipment::pla:pla:Airgas:welding_products::RAD64002046::PLA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhpDIyqyy5QIVFmyGCh1jgwopEAQYBiABEgLFxPD_BwE

As for shocks:
They are not meant to support any kind of load and is a good way to break a shock mount!
I just went with KYB's from LMC the truck does not bounce when getting in or out like it did with out shocks bolted on but cant say how they are on the road yet.

If you need to support more weight either load carrying helper leaf springs or air bags with HD upper mount is the only way to go.
Dave ----

swampedout wrote

I need some better electrical tools. I've got a pretty good pair of pliers with strippers, cutting blades and crimpers built in and it works for small gauge stuff but when I need to do battery cables or welding wire, I just get out the biggest pliers I own and pretend like I'm Mr. Atlas. With practice, I've gotten decent but I have had a fair number of terminals slip out. I don't do crimp-connects mainly because they aren't water tight. But mainly out of a sense of pride in my work.


On another note, I'm looking at suspension stuff because my road is a mess. I think the shocks on the 250 are probably shot. Rockauto has bilsteins, which is what I normally put on all my vehicles but I might go with something cheaper while I get things straightened out.
Currently, the back is set up with a coilover-strut, which I see online for "extra load carrying" which I don't think I need because when I do heavy loads I can inflate the airbags for a higher capacity.
Anyways, just brainstorming for the moment because the issue I really need to figure out is how to set up the rear bags to give me the most travel. Take shocks off, measure, buy some limiting straps.
I'm probably going to try throwing some monroe's or KYBs on to see how it feels as I get it closer to a set up that works for me.

This 460 is a beast.

I bought a crimper like this one from Amazon a few years ago for battery cables.  It works great, although its die are metric and the lugs we buy are inch-sized.  However, I've found that Magnalug brand lugs work well, and I use the closed-end ones.

For smaller stuff I have a ratcheting crimper, but I prefer to solder.  (Crimping may well be better for things with lots of vibration, but soldering has not failed me yet on a car or truck.)  And then I cover either the soldered or crimped connection with adhesive-lined heat shrink as Jim suggested.  At that point all of my joints are water-proof.

As the others said, air bags or helper springs are the way to carry more load, not springs on the shocks.

And speaking of shocks, I'm running Bilsteins on Big Blue, but Dad's truck has Monroe SensaTracks.  I put those on when I got the truck and they made a huge difference in the way it rode and drove.