1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

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1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Clex
This post was updated on .


Hi my name is Alex, currently working on my first project with this beautiful truck. Already redid the interior the mice had wrecked some major havoc inside so got all that tightened up and off to the engine for a fun time. Replaced my carb and my fuel pump, replaced some hoses  in the fuel line and added some fuel filters. Next step I'm working on is wanting to hook up some mechanical oil and temp guages for inside the dash and I really have no idea where to start on this.

Question at hand for this next step is where am I tieing into my engine to run hard lines to the gauges inside the cab, for the temp gauge I'm guessing I'm either  tieing into my water pump or my temperature sender which I'm having a bit of trouble tracking it down. Ill post any pictures that might help with the process just let me know if any of you guys can give me a hand on this and any information I need to provide! Thanks

It is a 6.6 400, gasolina

Edit: I will be posting plenty of pictures for this adventure I just need some time to upload them since my internet is very slow at the moment
1980 F350 Custom 4x4 400V8 Tall Boy
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Gary Lewis
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Every time someone says "Hi, my name is..." I think of AA.  Or is that FA?  

On the temp sender, the wire to it is red with a white stripe.  And, I think on the 351M & 400 the sender is in the block on the passenger's side by the water pump.  (I'd go look at Dad's truck, but it doesn't have the sender in yet.)  And, I think there's an unused plug in the same area that works well for an aftermarket gauge.

I've always put the two senders into different ports to ensure both are in moving coolant.  But someone on here used a tee to do that and got a good reading for his gauges, so you could go that way.

As for the oil pressure sender, it is on the back of the engine just behind the intake manifold.  And you can easily use a tee for that and put the existing sender on one side of the tee and the aftermarket one on the other side.  Oh yes, the wire to that sending unit is white with a red stripe.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

FuzzFace2
In reply to this post by Clex
Alex, welcome to FA we are here to help you

If you think mice are bad try rats and these, mom & 3 little ones

Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Gary Lewis
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Yipes!  Just watched RV for the second time, and there's a good tip on how to get rid of them in the movie.  (But, you may not be able to get rid of the smell after it soaks into the upholstery.  )
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Clex
This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by Clex
Man rats and an actual family of racoons what a rough find, thought mice were bad  .

So I think I found  the temperature sending unit with just a black wire (no red and white wire :/ ). I think I'm going to have to take some stuff loose and remove the fan and belts I just don't seem to have enough room to work around in that area. The truck has been sitting roughly 10 years till its first start up a month ago so I'm also wondering at this point if I should just give some major overhaul on replacing some parts in the engine bay now since i'm about to be flushing my radiator and moving some stuff out of my way to get some work done.

Finally cooling down so I'm gonna get out there and start getting a game plan together for this.

Edit: After thorougly rubbing off the black build up on the wire it is infact red and white, thanks for helping me locate it, going to have to remove the water pump to get to it to change it out.
1980 F350 Custom 4x4 400V8 Tall Boy
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

FuzzFace2
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis wrote
Yipes!  Just watched RV for the second time, and there's a good tip on how to get rid of them in the movie.  (But, you may not be able to get rid of the smell after it soaks into the upholstery.  )
What upholstery ....... there was nothing left between the rats and raccoons.

Headliner for this car.

They even ate other door panels & headliner for another car I had stored in it.
Thing is you cant get them for either car.
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Clex
They went insane!! That is very unfortunate
1980 F350 Custom 4x4 400V8 Tall Boy
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by Clex
I was going to tell you to ground the wire, turn the key on, and check the gauges.  Then you'd know you found the right one.  But, you found it anyway.  

Yes, it is tight in there.  And if you replace the water pump you should look the other fittings/plugs over to see if there's another one for your aftermarket gauge.  As said, you can tee them, but I'd rather not and I think there's a spare port on the M-blocks.

Or, you can put one of them in the port that's probably on the thermostat housing.  But that only gets the temp ahead of the thermostat.  If the 'stat is working correctly both gauges would see the same temp.  However, if the 'stat sticks shut the one ahead of it will see higher temps than the other one.

Oh yes, the M-blocks & Clevelands take a different thermostat than basically any other engine.  So don't let little Johnny at the parts store sell you a standard 'stat.  Read the Thermostat tab here: Engines/351M & 400.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by FuzzFace2
Dave - That's terrible!  I've had mice eat things and make messes, but never anything like that!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Rembrant
In reply to this post by Clex
Welcome aboard Alex.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Clex
This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by Clex
So got the truck jacked up got into the engine bay abandoned the temp sending unit, put a mechanical temp gauge, flushed all the coolant replaced heater core lines and radiator hoses, went ahead and replaced the alternator belt since I had to take it out to get to the temp sending unit. Replaced the coolant with brand new 50/50 and changed the oil. Pictures to come here tomorrow!

I have ran into a problem though trying to keep the truck running more then 1 minute and the entire minute is a very high idle and rough running. I have no real idea of the timing for the alternator belt but before I took it out I marked where it was then took it out and when installed again it went right back to where I had marked the lines at. The only thing that I caught my eye was I the clear fuel filter has much less gas flowing through it then prior to doing this, and yes the tanks do in fact have gas in them.

If anyone has any insight Id love some ideas, I would continue to troubleshoot it tonight but I killed my battery in the process of trying to get it to start any more then it would let me.

edit: also I do need to figure out how to adjust the carb to the correct air/fuel mix but prior to doing any of this I had it running just had a high idle but not running rough and dieing
1980 F350 Custom 4x4 400V8 Tall Boy
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Gary Lewis
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Ok, let's back up a step.  If I understand correctly, prior to working on it yesterday it was idling at a high RPM, but after working on it not only did it have a high idle speed but it ran rough and would die within a minute of starting.

And the things you did were:

Removed the factory temp sender & installed a mechanical temperature gauge

Flushed the cooling system & replaced the coolant

Replaced the heater hoses and radiator hoses

Replaced the alternator belt

Changed the oil, and presumably the filter

Two things come to mind.  One is that with all the liquid being moved around you may have gotten the distributor and/or the spark plug wires wet.  If water got into the distributor that could account for the rough running and dying.  And if the plug wires are old, getting them wet could do it also.  Maybe it'll be dried out this morning?

The other is that you have have a loose wire or a wire with bad insulation to/from the distributor or coil.  You were working in that area, so maybe one got moved around and came loose or the insulation broke and you have a short?

My guess is that you got something wet and it may have dried out by this morning.  If so you need to take a look at the plug wires as they may be bad and need replacing.

As for tuning the carb, the first step is to figure out if you have a vacuum leak causing the high idle.  Squirting brake or carb cleaner around the base of the carb to see if the idle speed changes helps.  And checking all the vacuum hoses is another.  Put a small hose to your ear and put the other end near each of the vacuum hoses while the engine is running and listen for a hiss.

But it could be that your choke isn't coming fully off and the fast idle is still engaged.  Or, maybe the idle stop screw is turned in too far.

Once you find what is causing the fast idle and correct it we can talk about adjusting the idle air/fuel mix.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Clex
In reply to this post by Clex
Checked all around for any loose wires or hoses in the area, the metal line off the back had been knocked loose so I buttoned that back up and gave it a try and it fired right up, no rough running so thats a relief but the high idle was there for about 25mins that I had it running. Sprayed contact cleaner around the base of the carb and the hose seeing it would kick it into a  high idle but no dice so as of right now I dont think I have a vacuum leak but I still would like to get some kind of vacuum gauge for this process.

After I had it running i went ahead and turned it off and when I went back to crank it over no dice so I'm a b it puzzled on what had happened. The only thing that comes to mind is it flooded
1980 F350 Custom 4x4 400V8 Tall Boy
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Clex
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Before and after of some hose changes, popped a mechanical temp gauge in and changed hoses/belts. Jacked up and tires off, entire brake job coming up they are non existent at the moment but after I can get the engine buttoned up.







1980 F350 Custom 4x4 400V8 Tall Boy
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Gary Lewis
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In reply to this post by Clex
When you say "no dice" does that mean it didn't even turn over?  Or didn't fire?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Clex
Gary Lewis wrote
When you say "no dice" does that mean it didn't even turn over?  Or didn't fire?
I mean it wouldn't fire, still always is trying to turn over.
1980 F350 Custom 4x4 400V8 Tall Boy
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Then I'll guess it is flooded.  The 2150 has the Holley-style accelerator pump that can leak.  If it does it can flood the engine, making restarting it difficult for several hours.

And/or, the choke may not be coming off properly.  So check the choke after it has run.  Is it off?  If so and the engine doesn't want to start try opening the throttle fully and see if that helps it start.  And, take a flashlight and look down through the carb to see if you see gas dribbling or if the bottom of the intake manifold is wet.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Clex
This post was updated on .
Ended up having to replace the alternator, installed the alternator and after some tuning to the air and idle got the truck running and was able to kick it down out of high idle after a warm up and slamming the gas and also doesn't die every time when I do give it gas. Realized my truck running straight off the battery so by the time I would adjust the screws to check it would just die because the alternator wasn't working and the battery was drained. Still need to fine tune the idle but more then happy with the results after a week of frustrating troubleshooting.

Now off to the brakes, going to need to do some research but looks like I need to replace it all except keeping my factory brake lines, more pics to come!

Also side note if anyone happens to have a fuse box template I would love that, the outside cover for the box wasn't in the truck when I got it.

1980 F350 Custom 4x4 400V8 Tall Boy
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

1986F150Six
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Re: 1980 F350 4x4 400 Tall Boy Project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by Clex
That would explain it.  Well done!

If by "fuse box template" you mean what fuse goes where, we have that in the documentation: Electrical/EVTM's/1981 EVTM/Fuse Block & Circuit Protection.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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