!000 Questions

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!000 Questions

howisdoug1
My name is Douglas Schouten I am 67 years old male. My landlord gifted me this truck which was sitting on his property abandoned since 2017. It is a 1986 Ford F150 4x2 with a 5.8 litre 351 W H.O. Holly 4180C 4-v Carb. C6 Automatic Transmission W/AC Tilt Wheel and Speed control White outside and blue and white inside. I have never had a Ford Truck before, early in life I had a Chevrolet and a Dodge and then a bunch of not driving years with a spinal injury. I have been working on it on and off for the past year and I am really liking the truck and the attention you receive when driving it, Oh I forgot to say 69,000 original miles. The 4th of July I went to the car wash and sprayed it off and dried it off but nothing under the Hood. When I tried starting it to leave it turned over and started but also the starter kept running so I turned the key off and both motor and starter kept running maybe a minute and I could hear the motor slowing down like it was getting starved for air and it shook and stopped. After it stopped, if i turned the key on nothing lit up and I checked the battery and it had 5.53 volts but no lights at all  so I replaced the starter relay and still does nothing checked all the fuses and they were all good, now I am baffled.I live in Phoenix AZ. I going to getting a hip replacement as soon as my Doctor can schedule it because of the corona virus. Any input would be super. I am Mechanically inclined but I am not a mechanic. Thank you Doug Schouten
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Re: !000 Questions

FuzzFace2
Welcome to the forum Doug or you like Douglas?
I am not one that can flip the switch but I am sure someone will be by soon.

As for the no power under the hood where the + battery cable hooks to the solenoid there should be some smaller gauge wires there also.
The smaller wires should be what is called fuse links. They act just like a fuse and blow if the load is too great but can take a spike and not blow.

When the solenoid get stuck, this is somewhat common and a hit with something can sometimes stop it, you can get a back feed that blows the fuse link.
I have found if you try and bend the wires, 1 at a time, in a arc if it had blown it will make a sharp bend.
You can also take a test light or meter and start at the solenoid and work your way up the wire so see if it get power all the way to where it connects to a normal wire at the harness.

You can buy replacements at the parts stores.
Dave ----
ps they will ask if you want to be placed on a members map it is up to you if you want to be added or not.
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: !000 Questions

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by howisdoug1
Yes, welcome!  At 67 you are young - I'm 73 and there are at least two others on here older than I am.

But I've not had to have a hip replacement so all I can say, having watched others do it, is to heed the therapist's instructions.  My brother thought he was tough and didn't, and paid the price.

On your truck, if you only have 5.3 volts at the battery you'll have to charge it to get it started.  And you'll probably need to replace the starter relay on the fender as it is apparently welded shut.  That happens, but sometimes that's because you have a bad cable or connection.  Other times the starter itself is bad and drawing way too much current.

And Dave is right, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I can add you if you give me a city or zip code.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: !000 Questions

1986F150Six
Administrator
Welcome to the forum!
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Re: !000 Questions

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by howisdoug1
Welcome Doug!  

Good advice posted.
The fuselink wires connected to the battery post of the relay can be identified by the rubber junction and tab on them.

Hope it is an easy fix for you.  👍
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: !000 Questions

howisdoug1
This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Thanks Gary, The first thing I did when the truck and the starter stopped was to disconnect the cables from the battery and put on a slow charge battery charger. Then I ordered a starter relay and when it came I put it on and yes two of the smaller wires that went to the relay had fusible links in the line and i tested them with a meter and by pressing a pin through the coating as the Bullnose Bible says and they tested good. So now the battery has a charge of right around 12.5 volts and the replay is in place and I hooked up the cables neg last. hopped in turned the key. Well nothing happened no dome light, It is like I took out the battery and left it out. Phoenix AZ.  85007
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Re: !000 Questions

howisdoug1
In reply to this post by FuzzFace2
Thank you Fuzz face for replying I haven't figured it out yet.
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Re: !000 Questions

howisdoug1
In reply to this post by 1986F150Six
Thanks for the welcome and info.
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Re: !000 Questions

howisdoug1
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Thanks for the welcome and in a bit I'll watch how you guys do this posting and message's
to ArdWrknTrk.
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Re: !000 Questions

howisdoug1
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Thanks To the Administrator for the welcome and info. Sounds and looks like
you have been busy with your truck (fun busy).
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Re: !000 Questions

grumpin
Welcome!
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona
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Re: !000 Questions

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by howisdoug1
Douglas - You might want to edit your post and take out the address.  I don't want my address out on the internet.  But that's your call.

Anyway, on the issue you are having, it sounds like one of your battery cables is bad.  Put your volt meter's positive cable on the battery-side stud on the starter relay and the negative lead on the engine block.  Do you have power?  Does it go away when you turn the key to Start?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: !000 Questions

howisdoug1
I'm going to be out by the truck at 5:30 am right now it is over a 100 degrees yet
and I will be trying your new info. Thank you so much, I will be in touch. Doug
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Re: !000 Questions

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Also connect from some point of the engine block and the battery negative post.
Actuate the starter and see if you get a voltage spike.

This will show if the ground cable has resistance.
Both sides need to function for a complete circuit.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: !000 Questions

1986F150Six
Administrator
If this is the case [bad ground cable], take one jumper cable and attach to the negative battery post with the opposite end attached to the engine block [or alternator bracket]. If the engine now turns over when key is used, you will know the current cable/connections are bad.
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Re: !000 Questions

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Good idea, David.  But you could do the same on the positive cable as well.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: !000 Questions

1986F150Six
Administrator
Yes, but be careful as the solenoid/relay is close to the fender [source of ground]!
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Re: !000 Questions

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
How's that going to work if your entire engine is powder coated???  🤔
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: !000 Questions

Gary Lewis
Administrator
ArdWrknTrk wrote
How's that going to work if your entire engine is powder coated???  🤔
In a word, "poorly".  Which has me wondering if that 3G you sent me is gonna work.  But at least I'll have plenty of battery power for breaking in the cam if it doesn't.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: !000 Questions

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
If it were mine is probably attach the lifting 'eyes' bare metal (or galvanized/plated) and make sure I had good ground beneath them.
You could put your favorite silver goo to keep rust at bay.

At least then you'd have convenient ground for diagnostics
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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